Method of and means for use in manufacturing footwear



July 13, 1937. F. ASHWORTH 2,086,526

METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN MANUFACTURING FOOTWEAR Filed Dec. 31, 1935 8 Sheets-Sheet 1 F. ASHWORTH July 13, 1937.

METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN MANUFACTURING FOOTWEAR Filed Dec. 31, 1955 8 SheetsSheet 2 wvw RN w W3 4 OMN mmxmi July 13, 1937. F. ASHWORTH METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN MANUFACTURING FOOTWEAR Filed Dec. 31, 1935 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 m& w

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QQ Q5 July 13, 1937. F. ASHWORTH METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN MANUFACTURING FOOTWEAR Filed Dec. 31, 1935 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 July 13, 1937.

F.. ASHWORTH METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN MANUFACTURING FOOTWEAR Filed Dec. 51, 1935 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 July 13, 1937. F. ASHWORTH 2,036,526 METHOD OF Am) MEANS FOR USE IN MANUFACTURING FOOTWEAR Filed Dec. 31, 1935 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 Tigrlfl W July 13, 1937. F ASHWQRTH 2,086,526

METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN MANUFACTURING FOOTWEAR Filed Dec. 31, 1935 8 Sheets-Sheet 7 July 13, 1937. F. ASHWORTH 2,086,525

METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN MANUFACTURING FOOTWEAR Filed Dec. 51, 1935 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 F i glj.

//v VE/V 7%? Patented July 13, i937- PATENT oFFicE METHOD OF AND DIEANS FOR USE IN MANUFACTURING FOOTWEAR Fred dshworth, Wenham, Mass assi or to nited :11

Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application December 31, 1935, Serial No. 56,955

69 Claims.

The present invention relates to and means for use in manufacturing footwear and is herein illustrated in its application to the man-,

ufacture of moccasins. The term moccasin as'hereinafter employed includes all types oi. footwear whereby the portion of the bottom of the foot from the region of the ball forwardly is provided with an integral covering the marginal portions of which extend upwardly and inwardly over the sides or the :sides and top of the forepart of the foot, such foot-bottom covering being hereinafter identified as the moccasin bottom.

Objects of the present invention are'to substitute machine methods for hand methods in the manufacture of moccasins, particularly in the operation of shaping moccasins on their lasts and thereby to increase production and to promote uniformity of the product.

In its application to machines for shaping moccasins over lasts the present invention provides means for lasting the toe end of a moccasin bottom, wipers constructed and arranged to operate locally on the sides of the forepart of the moccasin bottom, and means for effecting relative movement of the wipers and the last heightwise of the last in a direction to wipe the material-of the moccasin toward the top of the forepart of the last. This application discloses two forms of wiper mechanisms for operating on the sides of the foreparts in one of which mechanisms means is provided for moving the wipers in unison heightwise of the last and for simultaneously moving them inwardly over the top of its forepart, while in the other wiper mechanism means is provided for actuating the wipers individually. In both of the illustrated lasting organizations the toe end of the moccasin bottom is shaped over the last by a lasting member, herein illustrated as a stranded wire or cable.

For exerting a tension orretarding action on the margin at the toe end of the moccasin bottom during the operation of the toe-lasting cable to shape the toe end of the moccasin bottom over its last the invention provides spreading means constructed and arranged to press the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom against the toe-lasting cable after said margin has been turned outwardly over the cable. Two different constructions of said spreading means are illustrated in the drawings. In one of said constructions the spreading means includes a flexible sheet member constructed and arranged to engage the outturned margin of the moccasin bottom, said sheet being illustrated as composed of methods of vulcanized rubber. In the other construction the pressing means includes a corrugated plate constructed and arranged to press the outturned margin of the moccasin bottom against the toelasting member. In accordance with a further 5 feature of the invention this spreader construction includes a plurality of resiliently yielding members illustrated as spring fingers for engaging the outturned margin of the moccasin bottom and further retarding its movement inwardly 10 over the top of the forepart of the last.

For limiting the advancement of the toe-lasting cable there is provided, in accordance with a further feature of the invention, an abutment plate and means for causing the plate to register 15 with a predetermined area at the top of the forepart of the last. The illustrated abutment plate has the general shape of the forward portion of the toe piece which is to be secured to the upstanding margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom.

For holding the forepart of the moccasin bottom in lasted position I have illustrated herein two constructions in one of which the moccasin bottom is clamped against the last by an inflex- 25 ible clamping member which, as shown in the drawings, is arranged to engage the forepart of the moccasin bottom along a line adjacent to the toe-lasting member 'after said member has reached the limit of its advance. In the other 30 construction the moccasin bottom is held in lasted position by the toe-lasting member itself, a holddown being provided for maintaining clamping engagement of the lasting member with the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom. 35 In accordance with a further feature of the invention, the holddown member engages means which operates to support the toe-embracing end of the lasting member, said supporting means being illustrated as a flexible member or band 4 which connects the toe-embracing end of the lasting'member to a series of resilient'fingers, the holddown member being positioned between the lasting member and said resilient fingers.

The, present invention also includes a novel 5 method of making moccasins which, as disclosed herein, comprises shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom over a last and while the moccasin bottom is held in lasted position in the lasting machine securing to the top of the fore- 50 part of the last a clamping member, herein illustrated as a metal block having the contour of the toe piece to be secured to the moccasin bottom, the margin of the bottom of said block being arranged to engage the excess margin of the fore- 66 part of the lasted moccasin bottom, thereafter trimming said excess margin from the moccasin bottom, removing the clamping block, positioning a toe piece on the top of the forepart of the last, and securing its edge face to the trimmed edge of the moccasin bottom. The trimming operation as herein illustrated is guided by the edge face of the clamping block, said edge face being beveled to provide a suitable gaging surface. If the trimming operation is to be performed before the moccasin bottom has set to the last the upturned portion of the moccasin bottom is clamped to the periphery of the last before performing the trimming operation.

It is to be understood that it is not essential to my invention that all of the above steps be utilized nor that they be performed in the order outlined above, except to the extent that such is required by the claims.

' These and other features and aspects of the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a lasting machine embodying features of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a detail view in side elevation illustrating the mechanism for operating the toe-lasting member in a position different from that illustrated'in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a sectional elevation taken on the plane of the longitudinal median line of the last positioned in the machine;

Fig. 5 is a detail sectional elevation taken on the same plane as'l'lg. 4 and illustrating the toelasting mechanism in aposition diflermt from that illustrated in Fig. 4;;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view taken substantially on the line VI-VI of Fig. 4;

Fig. '1 is a detail viewin elevation of mechanism for clampingthe spreader against the top of the last;

Fig. 8 is a sectional elevation taken substantially on the plane of the longitudinal median line of the supported shoe illustrating a different toe-lasting mechanism; V

Fig. 9 is a detail sectional view taken on the same plane as Fig. dillustrating part of the toelasting mechanism in a position diflerent from that illustrated in Fig. 8; 1

Fig. 10 is a detail view illustrating the moccasin clamping block and a portion of the member for pressing said block against the moccasin;

Fig. 11 is a sectional view taken substantially on the line xr-xr of Fig. 8; I

Fig. 12 is a detail view of one of the side-lasting assemblies illustrated in 11 looking in the direction of the arrow at the right of Fig. 11;

Fig. 13 is a plan view of the lasting mechanism illustrated in Fig. 8;

Fig. 14 is a plan view illustrating the toe-lasting member of Fig. 8 and parts associated therewith;

Fig. 15 is a perspective view illustrating the operation of hand pincers on the moccasin bottom to stretch it heightwise of the last;

Fig. 16 is a perspective view of the forepart of a last having a lasted moccasin bottom secured thereto by the clamping block;

Fig. 17 is a perspective view of the forepart of a last having mounted thereon the peripheral clamping member for holding the upstanding acaauae margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom during the trimming operation; and

Fig. 18 is a perspective view of a lasted moc casin bottom having a toe piece cemented thereto and partially stitched thereto.

The invention is illustrated in its application to the manufacture of moccasin shoes, such, forexample, as the shoe illustrated in Figs. 1 and 18, which comprise a forepart member 20 which covers the bottom of the forepart of a last 22 and has its marginal portion arranged to extend upwardly about the periphery of the forepart of the last, and a rear part 24 having the general characteristics of a blucher quarter. The throat portion of the moccasin is positioned relatively to the last by tacks 26 driven through the hole of an eyelet in each of the blucher wings and into the last, the heel end of the shoe being positioned on the last by the usual assembling tack 28. The forepart of the shoe is loosely drawn over the last and tacked t0 the top of the forepart of the last before the shoe is positioned in the machine. The shoe is supported in the illustrated machine in an inclined, right-side-up position, the forepart resting on a bed plate 30 (Fig. 4) while the rear part is held by a clamp- 32 which travels lengthwise of the supported shoe on the bed plate, thereby to position the forepart of the shoe relatlvely to the operating instrumentalities of the machine. Such forward movement of the shoe brings its forepart into engagement with a flexible lasting member herein illustrated as a wire or cable 34 which extends along both sides of the supported shoe and around its toe end (Fig. 15). The cable 34 is so adjusted as to its length that the advancing of the supported shoe into operative position tightens the cable around the forepart of the shoe, as illustrated in Fig. 1, thereby clamping the toe end of the forepart 20 to the last. For clamping the side portions of the forepart member 20 to the last, clamping members or wipers 36 are arranged at opposite sides of the shoe, said clamping members, as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 3, being provided with openings extending lengthwise of the shoe within which the cable 34 is slidably mounted. After the forepart 20 of the moccasin has been clamped against the last by the cable 34 and the wipers 36 the tacks which were driven through the forepart member 20 and into the top of the last to secure said member temporarily to the last are pulled and the forepart member is stretched heightwise of the last, for example, by means of hand pincers, the tension thus imparted to the forepart member being maintained by the cable 34 and the wipers 36. The margin of the forepart of the moccasin is then turned outwardly over the lasting cable 34 and a retarder or presser device 31 (Fig. 5) is brought into engagement with the outurned margin. The toe end of the shoe is wiped upwardly and gathered inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last by drawing the cable 34 rearwardly of the supported shoe while the retarder maintains a tension thereon in order to prevent the occurrence of wrinkles in the forepart member during the lasting operation and to insure the shaping of the forepart of the moccasin to the last. After the toe-lasting operation has been completed a pair of forepart clamping plates 38 are brought into engagement with the moccasin forepart member 20 directly beneath the cable 34, as illustrated in Fig. 4, said plates engaging the forepart memher along a line substantially parallel to the line along which the forepart member is to be trimmed for the reception of a toe piece. After the clamriing plates 38 have been brought into engagement with the shoe the forepart retarding devices are released and swung out of operative position and a clamping member or block 40 (Fig. 16) is secured to the last as hereinafter described in order to hold the forepart member 20 in lasted position while the shoe is pressed into the clamping member illustrated in Fig. 1'7, which member holds the shoe on the last while a toe piece is cemented to the forepart member 20. The clamping block 40, as illustrated in Fig. 16, is provided with a beveled edge face 42 which serves as a guide for a hand knife which is employed to trim oif the excess margin of the forepart member, said edge face also serving todetermine the angle of the trimming cut. Preferably the edge face of the toe piece is undercut to the same extent as the edge face of the forepart member 20. After the trimming operation the clamping plate 40 is removed from the last and the edge face of the toe piece is cement attached to the edge face" of the forepart member 20, said parts being permanently secured together either by a hand sewn seam or by a seam formed by a sewing machine such, for example, as the machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,950,386, granted March 13, 1934, upon an application filed in my name.

Referring now to Figs. 1 and 4, the work-supporting means of the illustrated machine consists of the bed plate 30 which is supported at the upper end of a column 44 secured in a hollow machine frame 46, the bed plate 30 being provided with a downwardly-extending supporting flange 48 the bottom of which lies in a plane which forms an angle of approximately 30 to the top surface of the bed plate. The rear portion of the bed plate 30 is provided with a recess 50 for the reception of the heel clamp 32, the opposite side portions of the base of the heel clamp having tongue and groove connections to the side walls of said recess. For moving the heel clamp lengthwise of the supported shoe a screw 52 is positioned in the recess 50, each end of the screw being journaled in the bed plate 30, the rear end of the screw being provided with flanges 54 (Fig. 3) whichsengage opposite sides of a crossbar 55 at. the heel end of the bed plate thereby preventing movement of the screw lengthwise of the supported shoe. As illustrated in Fig. 4, the screw 52 extends through a hole in the base of the clamp 32 about half the length of said hole being tapped for threaded engagement with the screw 52. The heel clamp 32 provides a rest for the heel portion of the last which isoffset heightwise of the last from the plane of the bed plate 30 to the extent approximately of the height of a heel to be attached to the shoe. The heel portion of the shoe is centered widthwise thereof in the machine by side walls 56 (Fig. 3) of the heel clamp 32 which diverge forwardly of the supported shoe at an angle of approximately 90. The top of the heel clamp 32 is arched over the top of the heel portion of the supported shoe and a clamping screw 58 is positioned heightwise of the s pported shoe over the top of its heel end in a tapped hole in the top portion of the heel clamp. For limiting the movements of the supported shoe forwardly thereof by the operation of the screw 52 a bracket 60 is secured to the forward end of the bed plate 30 and arranged to be engaged by the toe end of the shoe thereby to position the shoe lengthwise relatively to the operating instrumentalities of the machine.

During its forward movement by the screw 52 the toe end of the supported shoe is brought into engagement with the flexible cable 34, said cable being drawn tightly about the toe end of the shoe during the latter part of its forward movement. Referring now to Figs. 1 and 3, the ends of the cable 34 extend through holes at opposite sides of a swinging head 62 near the top thereof and are secured to the rear face of said swinging head by a clamping screw 64. It will be seen that the effective length of the cable 34 may be varied by releasing the clamping screw 64 and either pulling up on the ends of the cable to shorten its effective length or, conversely, releasing additional cable to increase its effective length. Such adjustment of the cable 34 is re quired when changing from adult shoes to childrens sizes or vice versa but ordinarily no adjustment of the cable would be required in operating on the usual run of adult sizes.

The swinging head 62 which carries the cable 34 is provided with downwardly-extending ears 66 (Fig. 1) which are iournaled on a cross shaft 68 mounted in arms 10 extending rearwardly from the bed plate 30, said arms engaging the inner faces of the cars 66 and holding the swinging head 62 from movement widthwise of the shoe. For swinging the head 62 in a clockwise direction, as seen in Fig. 1, in order to draw the cable 34 in over the top of the forepart of the shoe, a pair of rotary cams 12 (Fig. 3) are secured to opposite ends of a cross shaft 14 journaled in the arms 10. The cams 12 engage cam followers I6 which are pivotally mounted in ears l8 projecting from opposite sides of the lower portion of the swinging head 62, said cam followers being positioned above the cross shaft 68 on which the head 62 .is journaled. In order to afford a frictional engagement of the cam follower 16 with the cams 12 thereby to hold the swinginghead 62' in any position to which it may be advanced by the cams 12, the cam followers 16, as illustrated in Fig. 2, are generally polygonal, their cam-engaging faces having a concave curvature of the same radius as the curvature of the'cams 12. For simultaneously rotating the cams 12 in order to swing the head 62 in a clockwise direction, as seen in Fig. 1, a handle is freely mounted on the cross shaft 14 near one end thereof. Upward movement of the handle 80 is transmitted to the cams by a pawl 82 mounted for rocking movement on the handle and arranged to engage a ratchet 84 secured to the cross shaft 14. In order that the operator shall not be required to disengage the pawl 82 from its ratchet before he can return the cams 12 to their initial positions, the pawl is held out of ratchet-engaging position when the handle 80 is at the limit of its downward movement, as seen in Fig. 1, by the engagement of a tail 86 formed on the pawl with one end of the cross shaft 68, the under surface of the tail 86 operating as a cam face against the cross shaft 68 to swing the pawl in a counterclockwise direction, as seen in Fig. 1,

at the end of the downward or return movement of the handle 80. The end of the tail 86 is bent about the cross shaft 68 to provide a stop or hook for limiting the downward movement of the handle 80. The swinging head 62 is constantly urged in a counterclockwise direction; as seen in Fig. 1, by torsion springs 81 (Fig. 3) coiled about the shaft 68 and arranged to impart pressure to the swinging head forwardly of the supported shoe. After the completion of'the lasting operation the cams 12 are returned to their initial position as'seen in Fig. l in order to permit return movement of the swinging head. In the operation of the illustrated machine the cams I2 are returned to their initial position by downward movement of a handle 88 secured to the end of I the cross shaft 14.

For wiping the side portions of the forepart of the shoe heightwise thereof toward the top of the forepart of the last a pair of side wipers 36 (Fig. 6) are secured to the upper ends of a pair of arms 92 and 94. The arm 94 is pivoted substantially midway of its length tothe upper end of an arm 96, secured to a gear segment 98, journaled on a stud I extending from a. boss provided in a downward extension I02 of the bed plate 30 (Fig. 4). For swinging the segment 98 in a counterclockwise direction, as seen in Fig. 6, a cam disk I04 is journaled eccentrically on a stud I06 projecting from a boss provided in the downward extension I02 of the bed plate. The cam disk I04 acts on a cam follower I08, the cam-engaging surfaces of which have a concave curvature of the same radius as the curvature of the eccentric I04. The cam follower is pivotally mounted at the lower end of a pendant I I0, pivoted to the downward extension I02 of the bed plate (Fig. 4). The lateral movement imparted to the cam follower by the eccentric I04 is transmitted to the gear segment 98 by a link I I2. For actuating the eccentric I04 a handle II4 is freely mounted on the stud I06 adjacent to the forward face of the eccentric I04 and is secured to the eccentric by a pin H6. The arrangement of the arm 96 on which the wiper arm 94 is pivoted is such that it moves the wiper arm both upwardly and laterally toward the side of the supported shoe thereby effecting the desired upward and inward wiping action of the wiper 36 against the moccasin forepart 20 on the last. For maintaining constant pressure of the wiper against the work a rod H8 is pivoted to the outer end of the arm 94 and arranged to extend downwardly therefrom through a hole provided in an'ear I20 extending outwardly from the gear segments 98, a compression spring I22 being coiled about the stem H8 and confined between the top of the ear I20 and the bottom of a nut I24 near the upper end of the stem H8, said being adjustable endwise of the stem to vary the compression of the spring I22 in order to vary the pressure of the wiper 30 against the work. Stop nuts I26 at the lower end of the stem II8 serve to limit the movement of the stem upwardly through the hole in the gear segment 98 thereby determining the initial elevation of the side wiper 36. For operating the wiper arm 92 simultaneously with the wiper arm 94 a gear segment I28 is journaled on the stud I06 and arranged to mesh with the segment 98. The connections from the segment I20 to the wiper arm 92 will be understood from the description of corresponding connections from the gear segment 98 to the wiper arm 94. It has been learned that the wiper which operates on the inner side face of the moccasin forepart meets much more resistance to its operative movements than does the side wiper at the outer side portion of the shoe due to variation in inclination of the opposite sides of the forepart of the last. This difference in resistance to the operation of the side wipers is so great that the wiper which operates at the inner portion of the forepart of the moccasin tends to move the forepart of the shoe and the last bodily widthwise instead of performing its intended wiping operation. In order to overcome this condition and to insure a simultaneous and equivalent movement of the side wipers heightwise of the shoe, interengaging gear segments I30 are journaled on the studs I00 and I06, re-' spectively, adjacent to the gear segments 98 and I28, respectively, each of said segments being provided with an arm I32 arranged substantially parallel to 'the outwardly-extending portion of the corresponding wiper-carrying arm, links I34 connecting the ends of the arms I32 to the outer ends of the wiper-carrying arms. It-will be seen that the equal and opposite movement of the side wipers provided by the mechanism above described requires a widthwise movement of the forepart of the last to permit the wipers to follow the varying inclinations at opposite sides of the forepart of the last. The side wipers 36 are yieldingly held in their retracted position, as indicated by dash lines in Fig. 6, by a spring I36, one end of which is connected to the gear segment 98 and the other end of which is connected to the frame. Each of the side Wipers 36, as illustrated in Figs. 3 and 6, is formed by folding a, piece of flexible material, for example grain leather I38, over a flexible metal tube I40 and Securing the adjacent surfaces of said leather member between a lower plate I42 and an upper plate I44, the entire assembly being secured to the upper end face. of the wiper-carrying arm by a clamping screw I46. The lower plate I42, as illustrated in Fig. 6, is provided with a shoulder I48 which supports the work-engaging portion of the leather member I38 and prevents undue strain on the leather during the wiping operation. The opposite side portions of the lasting cable 34 extend freely through the flexible tubes I40 carried by the side wipers 92. Thus it will be seen that the side wipers 36 support the forepart of the lasting cable, determining the initial elevation thereof and also advancing the side portions of the lasting cable upwardly and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last during the side-lasting operation.

In order for the illustrated lasting devices to shape the forepart of the moccasin to the last in a satisfactory manner, it is desirable that the upstanding margin of the forepart of the moccasin be held under substantial tension during the advance of the lasting instrumentalities. Referring now to Figs. 1, 3, 4, and 5, the illustrated means for holding the forepart of the moccasin under tension consists of gripper members or fingers I50 of which there are three in the illustrated assembly, one being located opposite the toe end of the supported shoe, while the other two are located at opposite sides of the toe portion of the shoe slightly forwardly from the region of the tip line. The fingers I50 .are pivotally mounted in the margin of a plate I52, secured to a block I54, said block having secured to the] bottom of its margin a plate I56 (Fig. the edge face of which is arranged opposite the lower ends of the fingers I50 and provides an abutment against which said fingers press the upstanding margin of the upper. Each of the fingers I50 has pivoted thereto the small end of a headed pin I50, said pin extending inwardly into a recess provided between the plate I52 and the block I54. The pins I58 each carry a compression spring I60 which is confined between the head at the free end ofthe pin and brackets I62 extending downwardly from the plate I52 adjacent to the pin. The pins I58 are so arranged relatively to their fingers I50 that they cross the axes on which the fingers swing during the movement of the fingers to and from upper-engaging position and therefore operate to hold the fingers alternatively in open or closed position. In order to increase the tension on the upper during the overwiping movement of the lasting cable 34, the bottom plate I56 is provided with a series of corrugations extending lengthwise of said plate, said corrugations having edges which engage the flesh surface of the margin of the moccasin forepart to resist the movement of said margin across the bottom of said plate. The margin of the forepart of the moccasin is pressed between the lasting cable 34 and the corrugated surface of the plate I56, as illustrated in Fig. 5, by a compression spring I64 coiled about a rod I66 which carries the block I54 and the parts mounted thereon. Near its lower end the rod I66 carries an abutment plate I68 provided with a flanged margin which defines substantially the periphery of the forwardend of a toe piece to be secured to the upstanding margin of the fprepart of the moccasin. The abutment plate I66 is positioned between collars I10 formed on or secured to the shaft I66 and spaced apart somewhat more than the thickness of the plate I66 in order to permit sufiicient freedom of movement of the said plate for it to adjust itself to the top of the forepart of the last. The plate I68 is positioned lengthwise and widthwise of the last by the engagement of the lower endof the rod I66 in a socket I12 extending downwardly from the top of the forepart of the last, said plate being oriented relatively to the toe end of the last by its engagement within a recess I 14 (Fig. 4) provided in the under surface of the bloclg I 54 and corresponding in shape to the plate I68, the block I54 being oriented relatively to the toe end of the last by the engagement of a dowel I16 extending downwardly from a rearward extension of said block into a socket I18 in the top of the last. The abutment plate I68 is normally seated in the recess I14 in the block I54 by the spring I64 (Fig. but becomes separated therefrom during the overwiping movement o f the lasting cable 34 whereby the block I54 is lifted above the abutment plate as illustrated in Fig. 4. In order to permit sufficient freedom of movement of the block I54 during the advance of the lasting cable 34 to prevent binding of the block I54 on the rod I66, the opening I 80 in the block I 54 through which the rod I66 passes is substantially greater in diameter than the rod.

Referring now to Figs. 1, 3, and 7, the rod I66 and parts carried thereby are suspended from an arm I82, one end of which is pivotally mounted between upwardly-extending parallel arms I84 of a bracket I86 which extends forwardly and then upwardly from the bed plate 30. The arm I62 is yieldingly held at the limit of its upward; movement by atorsion spring I86 which is coiled about an extension of the pivot pin I90 to which the arm I82 is secured, one end of said spring being secured to the'pivot pin by a collar I92 while the opposite end of the spring is arranged to engage the bracket I86. The arm I82 is swung downwardly by hand in order to bring the parts mounted thereon into engagement with the last, in which position the arm I82 is locked by the operation of a rotary cam I94 which is pivotally mounted between the outer ends of the arms I84. The cam I94 is secured to a cross shaft I96 which is provided with a handle I08.- The cam I94 engages a roll 200 (Fig. '1)

carried by an extension 202 of the arm I62, downward movement of the arm I82 by the cam being limited by the engagement of a stop member 204 secured to the margin of the cam with the periphery of the roll 200, said stop member being yieldingly held against the roll by a torsion spring 206, coiled about the cross shaft I96, and having one end secured to the shaft by a collar 208, the opposite end being bent to engage the under surface of one of the arms I84.

For clamping the forepart of the moccasin to the last after the completion of the lasting operation, the forepart-embracing clamping plates 38 (Fig. 3) are arranged to engage the lasted forepart member 20 beneath and adjacent to the lasting cable 34. The plates 38 are pivoted together .at a point in line with the longitudinal median line of the supported shoe and adjacent to the clamping edges of the plates. As illustrated in Fig. 4, the clamping plates are supported on a carrier 2I2 and are held from upward movement by a plate 2| 4 formed integrally withthe carrier and arranged to overlie portions of the clamping plates. The carrier 2I2 terminates in a plunger 2I6 which is slidably mounted in a guideway in a swinging head 2I8. The plunger 2I6 is yieldingly urged toward the toe of the supported shoe by a compression spring 220 coiled about a stem 222 extending from the plunger 2I6, movement of the plunger by the spring 220 being limited by a stop. nut 224 mounted on the portion of the stem 222 projecting from the swinging head 2I8. The clamping plates 38, as illustrated in Fig. 3, are provided with open-ended arcuate slots 226, the axes of curvature of which coincide with the pivot point of said plates, the open ends of said slots being located at the inner edge faces of the clamping plates between the pivot point of said plates and the swinging head 2I8. For operatively connecting the plates 38 to the carrier 2I2 rolls 228 are mounted in the carrier 2I2 in the opening between the bottom plate and the top plate 2 I4 thereof, said rolls being pivotally mounted at opposite sides of the longitudinal median line of the supported shoe and substantially equally distanced therefrom for engagement within the slots 226 provided in the clamping plates. The illustrated construction permits the clamping plates 38 to be advanced by movement of the swinging head 2I6 lengthwise of the supported shoe while permitting the clamping plates to close upon the supported shoe as they are brought into engagement therewit In order to insure suihcient clamping pressure of the plates 38 against the sides of the toe portion of the shoe, a crossbar 230 (Fig. 3) is pivotally mounted midway of its length on the top of the swinging head 2I8 and is connected to the outer margins of the clamping plates 38 by links 232 pivoted to the ends of the crossbar and also to removable thumb screws 234 projecting upwardly from the clamping plates. The illustrated construction permits the removal of the clamping plates 38 by merely disengaging the thumb screws 234 from the clamping plates and swinging the plates toward each other until they disengage the rolls 228 in the carrier 2 I 2.

For supporting the swinging head 2I8 trunl'llOIlS therefrom for pivotal engagement with a-carriage 236 (Fig. 4) which is slidably mounted in a crosshead 240 for movement substantially heightwise of the supported shoe. The crosshead 240 is slidably mounted on hollow shafts 242 (Fig. 3) secured to the machine frame be- 236 are arranged to extend outwardly neath the toe end of the supported shoe and at opposite sides thereof, said shafts extending in parallel relation to each other forwardly of the supported shoe. As herein illustrated the hollow shafts 282 are extensions of the shafts I88 and 186 on which the side wiper operating parts are iournaled. The hollow shafts 242 are arranged for engagement within suitable holes provided in barrels 244 at opposite sides of the crosshead 248.

18 For advancing the crosshead 248 toward'the toe and of the supported shoe a treadle' 248 (Fig. 1) is pivoted to the base of the machine frame and connected to the crosshead by a. chain 248 which extends upwardly through the interior of the frame and through the hollow base portion of the bed plate 38 where it passes over a sprocket 258- and extends therefrom forwardly of the supported shoe to a hook 252 secured to the crosshead. The crosshead is moved away from the toe 20 end of the supported shoe in order to disengage the clamping plates 38 therefrom by compression springs 254 (Fig. 3) contained within the hollow shafts 242 and arranged to engage a crossbar 258 secured to the crosshead 248 and having its ends positioned opposite the ends of the hollow shafts 242, the crossbar 256 being provided with studs 258 projecting from its ends into the springs 254. Suitable slots 268 (Fig. 4) are provided in the hollow shafts 242 to give the necessary clearance for the crossbar 256 as it moves toward the supported shoe with the crosshead 248. The clamping plates 38 may be adjusted heightwise of the supported shoe by turning a hand screw 282 which projects upwardly into the hole in the crosshead 248 in which the carriage 238 is slidably mounted and has threaded engagement within a tapped hole 264 extending upwardly from the base of the carriage. A compression spring 266 coiled about the hand screw 262 and 40 confined between the base of the carriage 238 and the bottom plate 268 of the crosshead 248 holds the head of the hand screw in engagement with the bottom plate 268 and yieldingly supports the carriage 238. In order to facilitate the removal of the shoe from the machine after the completion of the operations thereon, means is provided for moving the clamping plates 38 away from the top of the supported shoe. As herein illustrated, said means consists of a tension spring 218, one

58 end of which is connected to the bottom of that end of the swinging head 218 farthest from the supported shoe, the opposite end of said spring engaging a pin 212 at the lower end of the crosshead 218. The clamping plates 38 are held in position to operate on the supported shoe by a latch member 214 illustrated in Fig. 4, said memher being constructed and arranged to seat in a socket extending upwardly intothe bottom of the swinging head 218, said latch member being il- 60 lustrated as a stem extending freely through a hole in the hand screw 262 and provided at its upper end with a collar 216 which is backed up by a compression spring 218 which is seated at the base of a counterbore extending downwardly from the top of the carriage 238. The stem of the latch member extends downwardly from the head of the hand screw 262 and is provided with a spherical head to iacilitate downward movement of the stem to disengage the latch member from 7,0 the swinging head 218. In order to prevent in- 75 the bracket 68.

After the clamping plates 38 have been brought into clamping engagement with the toe end of the shoe the rod 166 and the parts mounted thereon are swung away from the supported shoe whereupon the operator wipes the excess margin at the toe end of the forepart member 28 in over the top of the last with his fingers. The clamping member or block 88 (Fig. 16) is then placed on the margin of the forepart member adjacent to the clamping plates 38, the opening extending through the top of the block being arranged in line with an internally threaded block extending downwardly into the toe end of the last whereupon the clamping block 48 is secured to the last by a clampingscrew 288. After the clamping block has been secured to the shoe, the shoe is removed from the machine and a clamping member 288 (Fig. 1'!) is brought into engagement with the forepart of the shoe and secured in position by forcing into the last bottom a. screwactuated pin 282 carried by an internally-threaded boss 284 extended downwardly from the bottom of a T-shaped base member 286. The clamping member 288 comprises a resilient plate 298 which is bent to conform to the peripheral curvature of the forepart of the last and also has its top margin curved inwardly sufliciently to engage the margin ofthe forepart of the last. The plate 288 is provided at its toe end with a downwardly and rearwardly extending car 388 and is provided at its rear ends with similar ears 382 extending downwardly and inwardly toward each other, the car 388 being secured by a clamping screw 38! to the base plate 286 at the bottom of the T while the ears 382 are secured by clamping screws 386 to the base plate 286 at opposite sides of the crossbar of the 1', slots 388 being provided in the ears 382 to permit adjustment of the sides of the resilient plate 288 widthwise of the shoe. The plate 288 is pressed downwardly against the margin of the top of the shoe by a presser plate 3l8 secured to the base plate 286 and arranged to press against the bottom of the shoe. The presser plate 318 as herein illustrated is positioned between the base plate 286 and the bottom of the shoe, the margin of the presser plate adjacent to the toe end of the shoe being bent around the base plate 285 and secured thereto by the screw 384. A presser member 312 is stamped out of the portion of the plate 318 which underlies the toe end of the shoe and is bent upwardly to engage the bottom-of the shoe, a corresponding presser member 314 being provided at the opposite end of the plate 318 while the opposite side portions 316 of said plate are bent upwardly to engage the shoe bottom.

The preferred operation of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1 is as follows. The last 22 and the moccasin parts thereon having been secured in the heel clamp32, the screw 52 is operated to bring the shoe into operative position whereupon the side wipers 36 are advanced and the lasting cable 34 is pulled up tightly to the toe end of the last if it was not tightened by the advancement of the shoe into operative position. The margin ofthe forepart member 28 is then stretched heightwise of the last by means of hand pincers, the tension thus imparted to the stock being maintained by the side wipers 36. During the operation of the hand pincers the last is held down on its support by the side wipers. The rod 166 and the parts carried thereby are then swung into engagement with the top of the forepart of the last and clampedin said position by swinging the cam 184 mw the position illustrated in Fig.

' 7. The fingers I 50 are then brought into engagement with the upstanding margin of the forepart member 20 whereupon the lasting cable 34 is advanced to gather the upstanding margin of the forepart member 20 inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last. The clamping'plates 38 are then advanced to clamp the forepart member 20 against the last and to hold said member in lasted position until the clamping block .40 is v secured thereto. The fingers I50 are then disengaged from the forepart member 20 and the rod I66 and the parts mounted thereon are then swung upwardly away from the last. The clamping block 46 is then secured to the top of the last, whereupon the shoe is removed from the machine and the clamping member 290 is secured to the forepart of the shoe. The forepart member 20 is then trimmed, the beveled edge face 42 of the block 40 serving as a gage for the trimming operation. The block 40 is then removed and the toe-piece 3I8 (Fig. 18) is secured by cement to the margin of the forepart member 20, preferably with the edge face of the toe-piece abuttingthe edge face of the forepart member. The parts are thereafter permanently secured together by a two-thread seam.

The features of the alternative construction illustrated in Figs. 8 to 15, inclusive, which differ from the construction shown in Figs. 1 to 7, will now be specifically described. Referring to Fig. 14, the lasting cable 34 is provided at its toe end with a flexible member 320 which is folded over the lasting cable-and arranged to extend forwardly and outwardly of the shoe therefrom, said'member being formed to provide a series of links 322 extending divergently from the lasting cable, each of said links comprising a top thickness and a bottom thickness of the member 320, the two thicknesses of material being secured together at the ends of the links 322 by eyelets 324. If it is desired to provide for convenient replacement of the member 320 the two thicknesses of the links 322 are left separate, an eyelet being provided in each thickness. Engaging the links 322 within the eyelets 324 are a series of upstanding fingers 326 (Fig. which are pivotally mounted on extensions 328 (Fig. 8) of a bracket 330 secured to the bed plate of the machine, said fingers 326 being arranged to swing independently in the direction of their respective links 322. For swinging the fingers 326 away from the supported shoe, said fingers are provided with torsion springs 332, said springs being coiled about the pins 334 on which the fingers are pivoted, the main portions of said springs being arranged to engage the surfaces of said fingers which face the supported shoe while the ends of said springs are bent to engage the top faces of the extensions 328. When there is no shoe in the machine the fingers 326 hold the lasting cable 34 in the position illustrated in Fig. 14 wherein the cable is drawn forwardly and outwardly into a position determined by the engagement of thatportion of the flexible member 320 which embraces the lasting cable 34 with a holddown member or bar 336 positioned above the flexible member, the bottom of the member 320 engaging the top of the bracket 330, (Fig. 8) which is positioned below the member 326. The space between the holddown bar and the bracket is sufficient to permit movement of the links 322 therebetween but not sufficient to permit the lastingcable to pass between them. The holddown bar 336 and the bracket 330 are in aiinement with each shoe, clamping screws ,to operate on the left contour of the other heightwise of the shoe and have the general curvature of the toe end of the shoe and consequently the lasting cable 34 in its rest position as seen in Fig. 14 has the general curvature of the toe end of the shoe, while the side portions of the cable are spaced from each other somewhat less than the width of the forepart of the shoe. The holddown bar 336 as herein illustrated is secured to the bracket 330, the opposite end portions 333 (Fig. 15) of the holddown bar being turned downwardly and sea ed in suitable sockets provided in bosses 340 formed at opposite sides of the bracket 33!). In order to permit adjustment of the bracket 330 and the parts mounted thereon heightwise of the supported shoe, said bracket is secured to the bed plate 30 by angle brackets 342 (Fig. 8') the downwardly-extending portions of which are provided with slots 344 extending heightwise of the supported 346 extending through said slots and into the bed plate 30.

The alternative side-wiping assembly illustrated in Figs. 11, 12, and 13 comprises a pair of wiper plates 348 arranged tooperate on the right side of the shoe in the machine and a corresponding pair of wiper plates 350 arranged side of the shoe. Each wipers consists of afiex- 352 which, as illustrated in widthwise thereof into three sections in order to increase its flexibility. The plates 352 are each covered with flexible nonabrasive material, for example a piece of thin grain leather 354, which, as illustrated in Fig. 11, is folded over the wiping edge of the wiper plate and secured together with the plate to a block 356 by clamping screws 358. The blocks 356 each terminate in a pin 360 which is freely mounted in a hole provided held in position therein, as illustrated in Fig. 11, by a spring clip 364 secured by the clamping screw 358 to the top of the wiper plate, said clip extending upwardly from the wiper plate, then lengthwise of the pin 360 over the top of the swivel block 362, the free end of said 'clip being bent downwardly for engagement with a beveled face 366 formed in the swivel block at the upper extremity of its outer end face. Each of the clips 364 holds its swivel block 362 in the position illustrated in Fig. 11 wherein a shoulder 368 formed on each block engages the swivel block 362, said clip also serving yieldingly to hold the wiper plates inclined upwardly a few degrees from the horizontal for engagement with the side portions of the supported shoe.- Each swivel block 362 is provided with a downwardly-extending pivot pin 310 which is freely mounted on one side of a carrier member or plate 312 and held from heightwise movement thereon by a headed screw 314 secured to the end of the pivot pin 310, the head of said screw extending beyond the end of said pin for engagement with the bottom of the plate 312. in Fig. 12, there is one carrier plate 372 for each pair of wipers. In order to maintain a. proper orientation of the side wipers relatively to the supported shoe while still permitting suflicient movement of the wipers in dividually about the axis of their pivot pins 310 to afford self-adjustment of the wipers to the shoe, the carrier plate 312 is provided with stops 376 (Fig. 13) arranged opposite downwardly-extending portions 318 (Fig. 11) of the blocks 366, four such stops being provided in each of the plates 312 as illustrated in Fig. 13,

of the illustrated side ible, reslient plate Pg. 13. is divided in a swivel block 362 and isinner face of the.

one of said stops being arranged adjacent to each side of each of the two side wipers carried thereby. Each of the carrier plates 312 is pivotally mounted on a stud 380 (Fig. 11') extending upwardly from an arm 382. The illustrated side wipers are operated individually rather than in unison as are the side wipers illustrated in F18. 6. The wipers are operated by hand levers 384, corresponding connections being provided between each set of wipers and its operating hand lever. For convenience of description, only the connections for operating the pair of wipers at the right of Fig. 11 will be described in detail, it

being understood that the wipers at the opposite side of the shoe are operated by corresponding parts. The illustrated operating connections for the wipers above referred to consist of a disccidal rotary cam 386 journaled eccentrlcally on a stud 388 secured to the machine frame and arranged to extend lengthwise of the supported shoe. The cam disk 386 engages a rounded face 390 at the lower end of a pendant 302 pivotally mounted on a pin 334, which is best illustrated in Fig. 8, and is threaded at one end thereof to the machine frame and supported at the opposite end in a strap 396 extending between opposite side portions of the frame. Pivotally mounted at the bottom end of the pendant 392 is a link 388, the opposite end of said link being pivoted to an ear 400 extended downwardly from an arm 402 journaled on astud 404 corresponding to the stud 388. The swinging movement imparted to the arm 402 by the cam 386 imparts counterclockwise movement to a bell crank lever 406 journaled on the stud 404 adjacent to the arm 402, the end of the vertical arm of the bell crank lever having pivoted thereto one end of the arm 382 on which the side-wiper assembly is supported, while the end of the horizontal arm of said lever is secured to the outer end of the arm 402 by a clamping screw 408, extending through an arcuate slot 0 in the arm 402, thus afiording relative adjustment of the bell crank lever 406 and of the arm 402 within the range of said slot in order to vary the position of the side-wiper assembly widthwise of the supported shoe. The wipers are yieldingly urged downwardly against the supported shoe by a compression spring 4l2 coiled about a rod 4 pivoted to the outer end of the arm 382, the lower end of said rod extending through an opening in a boss 4l6, provided in an arm extending downwardly from the bell crank lever 406, downward movement of the side wipers by the expansion of said spring being limited by stop nuts 420 arranged on the threaded end of the rod 4 for engagement with the bottom of the boss 446. For yieldingly holding the wiper assemblies at the limit of their movement away from the sides of the supported shoe, the downwardly-extending arms of the wiper-actuating bell crank levers at opposite sides of the machine are connected by a tension spring 422, the retraction of the wiper 350 by the spring 422 being limited by the engagement of a stop screw 424 carried by the arm 402 with the bottom of the bed plate 30 while a corresponding stop screw 425 limits the retraction of the wiper 348.

In the illustrated alternative construction the -forepart of the moccasin is held under tension consists of a piece of. flexible and preferably resilient sheet material 426, such as vulcanized rubber, the central portion of which is secured to a block 428 and the upturned margin of which is clamped to arms 429 (Fig. 13) extending in opposite directions from the end of the horizontal arm of a bell crank lever 430 which, in its operative position, is arranged adjacent to the toe end of the shoe. Each side portion of the margin of the member426 is clamped to arms 43! extending in opposite directions from the end of the horizontal arm of a bell crank lever 4'32, clamping plates 433 being provided for clamping the member 426 to the arms 423 and 43l,'respectively. The arms 429 and 43!, as illustrated in Fig. 13. are arranged substantially in alinement with the periphery of the toe end of the last. That portion of the sheet member 426 which engages the rearward extremity of the forepart of the moccasin has downward pressure imparted thereto by presser feet 434(Fig. 8) formed at the ends of a crossbar 436 extending widthwise of the supported shoe, said crossbar being secured to a right angular lever 438 and held from turning movement thereon by a dowel 440 projecting outwardly from the lever 438' into a notch provided in an upwardly-extending boss 442 on the crossbar 436. The bell crank levers 430 and 432 and the lever 438 are pivotally mounted on the block 428, each of said bell crank levers being provided with a pair of ears 444- (Flg. 13) arranged to engage opposite sides of arms 446 extending outwardly from the block 428, while the horizontal portion of the lever 438, as illustrated in Fig. 13, is divided into two parallel arms which engage opposite sides of an arm 448 extending rearwardly from the block 428. The bell crank lever 430 and the right angular lever 438 are urged downwardly in order to press the sheet member 426 against the outturned margin of the moccasin forepart by a compression spring 450 supported in an upwardly-extending portion 452 of the block 428 and having its ends seated in sockets provided in the levers 430 and 438, respectively. Similarly, the bell crank levers 432, as illustrated in Fig. 11, are urged downwardly by a compression spring 454 carried by the upwardly-extending portion of the block 428 and having its ends seated in sockets provided in the levers 432, respectively. For limiting the advancement of the lasting cable 34 an abutment member 456, similar to the abutment member I68 illustrated in Fig. 4, is secured to the bottom of the block 428 by screws 458. The member 456 also serves to clamp the central portion of the sheet member 426 against the bottom of the block 428. The block 428 and the parts mounted thereon are located in a predetermined position on top of the forepart of the illustrated last 460 by locating pins 462 extending downwardly from the block 428 for engagement within suitable sockets provided in the top of the forepart of the last, said pins extending" through openings in the sheet member 426 and the abutment member 456, the rear pin being an extension of one of the screws 458 (Fig. 8). The block 428 and the parts mounted thereon are suspended from the free end of an arm 464 which corresponds to the arm I82, illustrated in Fig- 3. The threaded top portion 466 of the upwardly-extending member 452 of the block 428 extends through a slot in the end of the arm 464. The block 428 and the parts mounted thereon are located heightwise relatively to the arm 464 by adjustable nuts 468 arranged to engage opposite faces of the arm 464. The block 428 and the parts carried thereby are held against the top of the forepart of the last 488 by manually-actuated devices corresponding to the organization illustrated in Fig. 7. It will be seen 5 that the block 428 does not move heightwise of the supported shoe during the advancement of the lasting cable 84 and consequently the lasting cable, as it moves upwardly and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last with the margin of the forepart of the moccasin, bends the sheet member 428 upwardly away from the last, thereby increasing the tension of said member against the outspread margin of the upper. In order to provide sumcient clearance for the is advancing of the lasting cable, together with the member mounted thereon and the outtumed margin of the upper, the under surfaces of the bell crank levers 488 and 482, respectively, are recessed as indicated at 418 in Figs. 8 and 11.

20 The toe-embracing clamping plates 38 illustrated in Fig. 4 are omitted from the construction illustrated in Fig. 8 because the holddown bar 888 provided by that construction holds the lasting cable 84 in clamping engagement with the 25 forepart of the moccasin and thus obviates the requirement of any further means for holding the moccasin in lasted position after the moccasin-engaging sheet member 428 has been lifted away from the supported shoe.

30 The clamping block 48, illustrated in Fig. 16,

may be employed in connection with the construction illustrated in Fig. 8, which includes a cam-pressed lever 412 one end of which is arranged to be brought into engagement with the 38 clamping block 48 after it has been positioned on the last and to press the block against the margin of the forepart of the moccasin on the last and to hold it in position for the reception of the clamping screw 288 whereby the block is se- 0 cured to the last. As illustrated in Fig. 10, the end of the lever 412 which engages the clamping block is provided with a recess 414 within which the top of the clamping block is received, the recessed portion of the lever being provided with 5 an opening 418 (Fig. 13) through which the clamping screw 288 may be passed in clamping the block to the last. The lever 412 is pivoted midway between its ends to the upper ends of an H-shaped bracket 418 which is secured by a clamping screw 488 passing through a suitable hole in its crossbar into the central portion of a crosshead 482, the barrel-shaped side portions 484 of said crosshead beingv adjustably secured by clamping screws 488 to parallel shafts 488 extend- 55 ing generally lengthwise of the supported shoe from the machine frame. For imparting pressure to the lever 412 after it has been swung manually into position to. engage the clamping block 48 a rotary cam member 488 is secured to a cross shaft 50 482 which is journaled in the lower ends of the H-shaped bracket 418. A camroll 484 is pivoted to the lower end of the lever 412, said end portion of the lever being bent to position the roll for engagement by the cam 488 after the lever has 65 been swung to operative position, as indicated by broken lines in Fig. 8. The cam 488 may be operated by a handle 488 secured to one end of the cross shaft 482 or it may be operated by a treadle (not shown) pivotally mounted in the base of the 7 machine and connected to one end of a chain 488 extending upwardly through the interior of the machine frame, over a sprocket (not shown) then over a sprocket 588 secured to the cross shaft 482. The end link of the chain is attached to the 7 sprocket 888. For yieldingly holding the cam 488 at the limit of its movement ira counterclockwise direction, as seen in Fig. 8, a torsion spring 882 (Fig. 13) is coiled about an extension of the cross shaft 482, one end of said spring being mounted in the bracket 418 while the other end is positioned 5 in a slot 884 in the end of said shaft.

In the operation of the construction illustrated in Fig. 8 the shoe is positioned in the machine by bringing its toe end into clamping engagement with the covered portion of the lasting cable 84 which, in turn, is positioned by its engagement with the holddown bar 888 and the bracket 888' which limit movement of the lasting cable lengthwise of the supported shoe. After the shoe is positioned in the machine the lasting cable 84 is 16 pulled up slightly and the side wipers 848 and 858 are' advanced to the limit of their overwiping movement, as illustrated in Fig. 13. The forepart of the moccasin is then stretched heightwise thereof, for example by means of hand pincers 20 588 (Fig. 15). The margin of the forepart member 28 projecting above the lasting cable 84 is then turned outwardly upon the lasting cable whereupon the upperengaging member 428 is brought into engagement with the outtumed margin of the upper and the clamping mechanism 11- lustrated in Fig. 7 is operated to secure the upperengaging member in operative position, as illustrated in Fig. 8. The lasting cable 84 is then advanced from its position illustrated in Fig. 8 to 30 its position illustrated in Fig. 9, the upper-engaging member 428 being bent upwardly and stretched somewhat by movement of the lasting cable between it and the last. The frictional engagement of the member 426 with the outtumed margin of the forepart member 28 during the advance of the lasting cable 84 ofl'ers sumcient resistance to the movement of said outtumed margin to cause tension to be imparted to the upper during the advancement of the lasting cable, such 40 tension being suilicient to prevent the occurrence of wrinkles in the margin of the forepart member 28 as it is gathered in over the top of the forepart of the last. After the lasting cable has been advanced to its position illustrated in Fig. 9 the member 428 and the parts associated therewith are swung upwardly away from the last, the lasting cable 34 serving to hold the forepart member 28 in lasted position. The margin of the upper is then turned inwardly over the top of the last and the clamping block 48 is positioned on the top of the last with its bottom margin engaging the inturned margin of the forepart member. The lever 412 is then pressed against the clamping block whereupon the clamping block is secured to the last by the clamping screw 288 (Fig. 10). The remaining operations on the shoe are the same as described above in connection with the operation of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for lasting the toe end of a moccasin bottom, wipers constructed and arranged to operate locally on the sides of the forepart of the moccasin bottom, and means for effecting relative movement of the wipers and the last heightwise of the last in a direction to work the material of the moccasin bottom toward the top of the 70 forepart of the last.

2. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts means for working the toe end of a moccasin bottom heightwise thereof toward the top of the forepart of a last, and wipers constructed and 7s arranged'to operate locally on the sides of the forepart of the moccasin bottom beginning at an elevation substantially above the last bottom. and extending upwardly and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last.

3. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for working the toe end or a moccasin bottom heightwise thereof. and inwardly over the top of a forepart of a last, wipers conthe moccasin bottom, and means for moving the wipers in unison heightwise of the last and simultaneously inwardly over the top of the .iorepart of the last.

5. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for lasting the toe end of a moccasin bottom, wipers constructed and arranged to operate locally on opposite sides of the forepart of the moccasin bottom, and means for moving the wipers individually heightwise of the last and simultaneously inwardly overthe top of its forepart.

6. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a toe-lasting wire and side-lasting members constructed and arranged to carry the-lasting wire heightwise of the last and inwardly over the top of its forepart.

7. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a toe-lasting cable and side-lasting members constructed and arrangedto carry the lasting cable heightwise of the last and inwardly over the top of its forepart, while permitting movement of the lasting cable lengthwise of the last relatively to the wipers.

8. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for lasting the toe end of a moccasin bottom, a wiper constructed and arranged to operate locally on one side of the forepart of the moccasin bottom, an arm to which the wiper is secured, said arm being mounted to swing about an axis extending generally lengthwise oi the last, means for movingsaid arm bodily heightwise of the last toward the top of the last, and for simultaneously swinging the arm about its axis thereby to move the wiper inwardly over the top of the last.

9. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for lasting the toe end of a moccasin bottom, and a pair of wipers constructed and arranged to operate locally on opposite sides of the iorepart of a moccasin bottom, a pair of arms to which the wipers are respectively secured, carriers on which said arms are respectively mounted for swinging movement about axes extending substantially longitudinally of the last, and means for moving said carriers thereby to impart bodily movement to said arms heightwise of the last toward the top of the last and for simultaneously swinging said arms about their axes thereby to move the wipers inwardly over the top of the last.

10. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for lasting the toe end of a moccasin bottom, wipers constructed and arranged to operate locally on the sides oi the forepart of the 11. In a'nraciidhe for shaping moccasins over-ta...

lasts, means: ram lasting the toe end or a moccasin bottom, wipers constructed and arranged to operate locallyo'n the sides of the iorepart oi the moccasin bottom, and cam actuated means for moving the wipers heightwise of the last toward 10..

the top of its iorepart and simultaneously inwardly over the top of the last and to hold the wipers against the moccasin bottom after they have been advanced to the limit of the overwiping movement. 15

12. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a rest for the forepart oi. a last in substantially upright position with a moccasin bottom thereon, and means constructed and arranged to hold the forepart of the moccasin bottom 20 against the forepart oi the last while simultaneously holding the last down against said rest; 13. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a rest for the iorepart of a last and'moccasin parts thereon arranged substantially in 25 upright position, and a plurality of clamping members for holding the i'orepart of a moccasin bottom against the iorepart of the last while simultaneously holding the last down against said rest. v v

14. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a support, a flexible lasting member for working a moccasin bottom heightwise 01' a last on said support, and means constructed and arranged to be positioned in engagement with the 35 top of the iorepart of the last and in predetermined and constant relation to the last for limiting the advance of said flexible lasting member. 15. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a support for a last with a moccasin bot- 40 tom thereon, a flexible lasting member for working the foreparts of the moccasin bottom heightwise of the last, an abutment plate for limiting the advance of said flexible lasting member, and means for causing the plate to register with a predetermined part of the top of the iorepart oi the last.

16. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a support for a last with a moccasin bottom thereon, a flexible lasting member for working the iorepart of the moccasin bottom heightwise oi the last, an abutment plate for limiting the advance of said flexible lasting member, "and pin-and-socket connections between 'the plate and the lastfor causing the plate to r ter with 65 a predetermined area oi the top of the forepart of the last.

17. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for supporting the forepart of a last with a moccasin bottom thereon, a flexible lasting member for working the moccasin bottom heightwise of the last, and means for moving the last lengthwise thereof on its support into engagement with the flexible lasting member.

18. In a machine for shaping moccasins over. lasts, a rest for the torepart oi! a last with a moccasin bottom thereon, a clamp constructed and arranged to engage the heel end of the last,

a fleidble lasting member for working the forepart of the moccasin bottom heightwise of the last, and means for movingthe clamp lengthwise of the last thereby to advance the last into operative relation to the flexible lasting member.

19. In a machine for shaping moccasin botll toms over lasts, means for supporting a last with a moccasin bottom thereon in substantially upright position, a flexible lasting member for shaping the forepart of the moccasin bottom to the forepart of the last, and spreading means constructed and arranged to press the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom against the flexible lasting member after said margin has been turned outwardly over said member.

20. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for supporting a last with a moccasin bottom thereon, a lasting member constructed and arranged to conform to the contours of the forepart of the last, and a spreader for yieldingly pressing the margin of the moccasin bottom against the lasting member after said margin has been turned outwardly over said member.

21. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a support for a last with a moccasin bottom thereon, a lasting member constructed and arranged to conform to the contours of the forepart of the last, and a spreader constructed and arranged to'press the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom against the lasting member after said margin has been turned outwardly over said member and to retard the movement of the outturned margin of the moccasin bottom inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last during the advance of the lasting member.

22. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a support for a last with a moccasin bottom thereon, a lasting cable constructed and arranged to conform to the contours of the forepart of the last, and a spreader constructed and arranged to press the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom against the lasting cable after said margin has been turned outwardly over said cable and to retard the movement of the outturned margin of the moccasin bottom inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last during the advance of the lasting cable.

23. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a support for a last with a moccasin bottom thereon, a lasting wire constructed and arranged to conform to the contours of the forepart of the last, a spreader constructed and arranged to press the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom against the lasting wire after said margin has been turned outwardly over said wire and to retard the movement of the outturned margin of the moccasin bottom inwardly over the top of,

the forepart of the last during the advance of the lasting wire, and an abutment member carried by the spreader and constructed and arranged to limit the advance of the wire.

24. In a machine for shaping moccasin bottoms over lasts, means for supporting a last with a moccasin bottom thereon in substantially upright position, a flexible lasting member for shaping the' forepart of the moccasin bottom to the forepart of the last, a spreader constructed and arranged to press the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom against the flexible lasting member after said margin has been turned outwardly over said member, and connections between the spreader and the last for locating the spreader in predetermined and constant relation to the forepart of the last.

25. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for working the forepart of a moccasin bottom heightwise thereof toward the top of the forepart of the last, and a spreader for pressing the margin of the moccasin bottom against said lasting means after said margin has been turned outwardly over the lasting means, said spreader being constructed and arranged to be supported upon the top of the forepart of the last when the spreader is in its upper-engaging position.

26. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for working a moccasin bottom heightwise of the last toward the top of the last, a spreader for pressing the outturned margin of the moccasin bottom against said lasting means, and means for efiecting registration of the spreader with a predetermined area at "the top of the forepart of the last.

27. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for working a moccasin bottom heighthwise of the last toward the top of the last, a spreader constructed and arranged to press the margin of the moccasin bottom against the lasting means after said margin has been turned outwardly over the lasting means, a carrier for the spreader movable toward and from a predetermined location on the top of the forepart of the last, said spreader being constructed and arranged to adjust itself to the forepart of the last.

28. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for working a moccasin bottom heightwise of the last toward the top of the last, and a spreader constructed and arranged to press the margin of the moccasin bottom against said lasting means after said margin has been turned outwardly over the lasting means, said spreader comprising a last-engaging member, a series of resiliently yielding members extending outwardly from said last-engaging member and upperggigaging means carried by said yielding mem- 29. 'In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for working a moccasin bottom heightwise of the last toward the top of the last, and a spreader constructed and arranged to press the margin of the moccasin bottom against said lasting means after said margin has been turned outwardly over the lasting means, said spreader comprising a last-engaging member, a series of resiliently yielding members extending outwardly from said last-engaging member, and an upper-engaging sheet carried by said yielding members.

30. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a lasting wiper for working a moccasin bottom heightwise of the last toward the top of the last, and a spreader for pressing the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom against said wiper after said margin has been turned outwardly over said wiper, said spreader comprising a central member constructed and arranged to engage the top of the forepart of the last, arms pivoted to said central member and extending outwardly therefrom, and an upper-engaging sheet carried by said arms.

31. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a lasting wiper for working a moccasin bottom heightwise of the last toward the top of the last, and a spreader for pressing the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom against said wiper after said margin has been turned outwardly over said wiper, said spreader comprising a central member constructed and arranged to engage the top of the forepart of the last, arms pivoted to said central member and extending outwardly therefrom, an upper-engaging sheet carried by said arms, and means carried by said central member for urging said arms toward the outturned margin of the moccasin bottom.

32. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a lasting wiper for working a moccasin bottom heightwise thereof toward the top of the last, and a spreader for pressing the margin of the moccasin bottom against said wiper after said margin has been turned outwardly over said wiper, said spreader comprising a central member constructed and arranged to provide an abutment against which the moccasin bottom is lasted, a series of presser members carried by said central member and extending outwardly therefrom, and upper-engaging means carried by said presser members.

33. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a lasting wiper for working a moccasin bottom heightwise thereof toward the top of the last, and. a spreader for pressing the margin of the moccasin bottom against said wiper after said margin has been turned outwardly over said wiper, said spreader comprising a central member constructed and arranged to provide an abutment against which the moccasin bottom is lasted, a series of presser members carried by said central member and extending outwardly therefrom, and an upper-engaging sheet carried by said presser members.

34.' In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a lasting wiper for working a moccasin bottom heightwise of the last toward the top of the last, and a spreader for pressing the margin of the moccasin bottom against the lasting wiper after said margin has been turned outwardly over said wiper, said spreader comprising a central member providing an abutment for limiting the advance of the lasting wiper, means for effecting registration of said central member with a predetermined area of the top of the last, a series of presser feet pivoted to said central member and extending outwardly therefrom, and means for urging said presser feet toward the top of the last.

35. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a lasting member for working the forepart of a moccasin bottom heightwise thereof toward the top of the last, and a spreader for pressing the margin of the moccasin bottom against the lasting member after said margin has been turned outwardly over said lasting member, the upperengaging face of said spreader being provided with corrugations constructed and arranged to register with said lasting member.

36. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a lasting member for working the forepart of a moccasin bottom heightwise thereof toward the top of the last, a spreader for pressing the margin of the moccasin bottom against the lasting member after said margin has been turned outwardly over said lasting member, the upperengaging face of said spreader being provided with corrugations constructed and arranged to register with said lasting member, and a series of upper-engaging grippers mounted on the spreader member.

37. In a'machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a lasting member for working the forepart of a moccasin bottom heightwise thereof toward the top of the last, an abutment member constructed and arranged to be positioned on the top of the forepart of the last to limit the advance of the lasting member, a spreader carried by the abutment member and constructed and arranged to press the margin of the moccasin bottom against the lasting member after said margin has been turned outwardly over said lasting member, and yielding means for holding the spreader against said abutment member.

38. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a flexible lasting member for working a moccasin bottom heightwise of a last toward the top of the last, and an inflexible clamping member constructed and arranged to engage the moccasin bottom on the last before the lasting member is released and to hold the moccasin bottom in lasted position.

39. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a lasting member constructed and arranged to conform to the contours of the forepart of the last, and an inflexible clamping member constructed and arranged to engage a moccasin bottom on a last along a line adjacent to the lasting member after said member has reached the limit of its advancement.

40. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a shoe support, a flexible lasting member for working a moccasin bottom heightwise of a last, means constructed and arranged to be positioned in engagement with the top of the forepart of the last and in predetermined and constant relation to the last for limiting the advance of said flexible lasting member, and means constructed and arranged to engage t...-e lasted moccasin bottom beneath and adjacent to the flexible lasting member when said member is in the limit of its advancement, thereby to clamp the moccasin bottom in lasted position.

41. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, a support for a last with a moccasin bottom thereon, a flexible lasting member for working the forepart of the moccasin bottom heightwise of the last, an abutment plate for limiting the advance of said flexible lasting member, means for causing the plate to register with a predetermined area of the top of the forepart of the last, and inflexible clamping plates constructed and arranged to engage the lasted moccasin bottom beneath and adjacent to the flexible lasting member after said member has been arrested by the abutment plate.

42. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for supporting a last and a moccasin bottom thereon, a flexible lasting member constructed and arranged to work the forepart of the moccasin bottom heightwise thereof toward the top of the last, a spreader for yieldingly pressing the margin of the moccasin bottom against the lasting member after said margin has been turned outwardly over said lasting member, and forepart-embracing clamping means constructed and arranged to engage the lasted moccasin bottom while the moccasin bottom is held in lasted position by the lasting memher and the spreader and to secure it in lasted position.

43. In a machine for shaping moccasins over lasts, means for supporting a last and a moccasin bottom thereon, a flexible lasting member constructed and arranged to work the forepart of the moccasin bottom heightwise thereof toward the top of the last, a spreader for yieldingly pressing the margin of the moccasin bottom against the lasting member after said margin has been turned outwardly over said lasting member, and forepart-embracing inflexible clamping plates constructed and arranged to engage the lasted moccasin bottom while the moccasin bottom is held in lasted position by the lasting member and the spreader and to secure it in lasted position.

44. In a machine for shaping moccasins over 

